The most formidable barrier to a good mane trim is ... fear. Human fear of botching the job. Rest assured that mane trimming is actually not as difficult as it seems, and manes grow back.
Trim Interval
We set a calendar reminder to trim every month, and strive to get it done within a week of the reminder. Some manes can go much longer, but the ones that can't will flop, and once that happens, the bottom portion of those "flopped" hair shafts will stay bent. The only means to correct this is to cut those bent shafts off as short as possible. For a small section that the horse has rubbed and broken, such as some of the white hairs only on one side, that section alone can be clipped down. It won't look nice, but the rest of the mane and the arc will be preserved. For larger areas or if aesthetics are a concern (such as an impending public appearance), complete roaching ("hogging") is the remedy.
Mane thickness, hair stiffness, and rate of growth do vary considerably amongst Fjords as a whole, but it's important to know that the majority of Fjords will develop an unsightly "perma-flop" section in the crest of their neck if their manes are allowed to grow out and hang over to the side like other breeds; most will acquire a permanent mane tilt just from a tardy mane trim.
Tools
We use and recommend Fiskars Easy Action 8" Titanium Scissors. Completely portable; no electricity or cords or batteries; will last a long time as long as you hide them so they don't ever get used for other things.
We also like to have a comb such as this one. It's handy for getting wet, floppy sections to stand up, for going over the mane after trimming to encourage loose or folded hairs to emerge, and more.
If you are already an ace with electric clippers, you may prefer them; more power to you (haha!) ... but be aware that Fjord mane hair is very coarse and dulls clipper blades rapidly.
Basic Trim Tips
Pro tips:
• Plan to take more than one session if necessary. If you're OK coming back to it later, you usually won't have to!
• Do NOT wear fleece!
• Do NOT stand downwind!
Do whatever is necessary for your Fjord to maintain good emotional regulation during mane trimming — both for their sake, and for yours (and for anyone else who may have to trim those manes in the future).
A bit of food can help make the "standing around" part easier for the horse (especially for a youngster), though haynets aren't the best choice due to the Fjord randomly pulling and jerking out their tidbits rather than munching in one static location. When using food, we like to use hay pellets — tasty, but not high-calorie. Put the goodies in a feeder at a level that is comfortable for the Fjord and results in a comfortable working level for the trimmer.
We do not tie for mane trimming. For one thing, its easier to not have to clip around a halter. It's also a whole lot faster to NOT halter horses, but instead wander around from horse to horse during their usual dozing time, trimming each where they stand.
For the horse, being tied while human holds breath and stares intently at horse (where horse cannot see) is a universal signal that they are probably on the menu. It's better far for the relationship if they know they can take a walking break from our laser-beam eyes now and then (which also reminds us to BREATHE!). And, just as important, knowing they can walk around if they need to means they feel the need to walk a whole lot less often.
That's not to say that tying is bad, just that it's definitely not a necessity.
That being said, be warned there is a mane trimming "technique" that involves tying the horse short and then, using threats and fear, forcing it to the end of the rope so that it will remain still and with head and neck on high. While the trimming results might look good, the method is resoundingly NOT horse-centric. We have had to rehab a couple of Fjords (with previously excellent mane trimming manners) who had pretty obviously been subjected to this treatment. As soon as they perceived what was about to happen, their eyes got wild, their posture became tense and terrible, and they were severely dysregulated ... not to mention they pulled their ropes completely out of the Blocker Tie Rings (better than harming their necks, but still ...). For both of these Fjords, the solution was to trim at liberty (which we prefer anyway). With nothing to pull against and with consistent intrinsic supportive messages and calming signals from us, both were able to relax long enough to get the job done in sections, and subsequent mane trims built on that success. One had to take walking breaks for quite awhile, but even that has improved with time and patience.
The Trimming Process
Standing on the horse's left, start at the base of the withers where the mane hairs begin. Near the withers you might be able to trim the entire width of the mane, but unless your Fjord has an enviably natural "knife-edge" mane type, soon you will only be able to trim part of the width. Concentrate on getting the white portion right; you can match the center to the white on a second pass.
Trim as much as you can from the left before switching to the opposite side to clean up. From the right side at the top, be sure to hold the right ear gently out of the way so it doesn't get pinched between scissor handles (ouch!).
We like to leave everything that will be under a flymask as part of the forelock (roughly 1.5" behind the ears), otherwise the short stuff under a flymask ends up all crinkly ... and our take is that pressure directly down on the upright portion of the mane doesn't feel good to them anyway.
To get a clean break at the end of the mane near the forelock, stand in front of your Fjord and use a narrow comb such as this one to gently lay the root of the forelock down toward you; snip straight across the short hairs that still stand up. Using the comb at this location is an intrinsic horse message to lower the head, and if you have a decent relationship with your Fjord, they will be happy to comply.
The forelock itself is always left untrimmed, no matter how long or how short. If the forelock is rather long, many people choose to keep it in a loose braid whenever clear vision is an advantage.
On both sides, expect some fidgeting or even pawing when trimming around the mid-neck point ... because mid-neck is the precise body language spot for "you need to change something NOW" ... and so they start searching for the thing they believe you want changed. It's hard for the horse to ignore what they automatically interpret as a Very Important Message! Be patient, and counter the unavoidable mid-neck message with one that clearly states what you do want.
Stroking the jugular groove downward with the left hand (while clipping) helps some Fjords steady themselves ... but not others. Another steadying technique is to offer the left hand as a muzzle target/check-in landing while continuing to clip with the right hand. A light touch at the base of the neck conveys, "I'd prefer you wait a bit before walking off." Using the horse's own language in these ways stacks the deck for success; understanding and success brings calmness (which begets more calmness) to both Fjord and mane trimmer.
When you're all done trimming, flick all the cut hairs off with a body brush, paying particular attention to any pieces that have strayed near eyes and ears.
Follow-up Trimming
It is inevitable that some hairs will be missed; others will shed and stick up above the cut. Just plan to follow up in a day or two ... and don't wait until the day before a public event to do that initial trim!
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The Flat-Top Trim
The flat-top cut is traditional; the white sides and darker center midstol are cut to the same length. It's the quickest trim (other than roaching) and the most practical. It's the trim we use the most by far.
If the mane was trimmed in a good arc the previous month, copy the arc!
Below is a mane ready for a trim. You can see the "shadow" line within the white hairs, about 3/4" below the top, which is a natural outcome each time because some of the hairs cut the previous month were past the growth phase and didn't get any longer after being cut. This is less pronounced in winter, and less obvious on red and yellow duns, but it's still visible.
Patiently trim to the line and it will look like a pro did it!
Mourning Trim
The mourning trim was traditionally used only for funerals, but no such restrictions exist in modern times. It's the easiest "fancy" cut to achieve, and it is one of the few special cuts that remain looking good as the mane continues to grow.
We have found the mourning trim particularly useful for those Fjords whose mane hair is fine and thus prone to flopping over at a rather short length. The taller colored center midstol provides a more pleasing aesthetic height to the total arc and is supported by the white sides, which — having been trimmed shorter — are more resistant to flopping.
Once again, if the mane was trimmed in a good arc the previous month, copy the arc!
When converting a flat-top trim to a mourning trim, clip the entire white portion on the left side first and then trim the darker midstol stripe to about 1cm / 0.5" above the white. Switch sides and trim the right-side white to the level of the center; then trim the white below the center midstol to match the height of the white section on the opposite side. To finish, be sure to sight down the mane from both back and front. Level any discrepancies in height between the two white sides, and clean up any variances in the midstol width.
The mourning trim does take longer and involves a lot more "laser-beam eyes" from the human, so it's not a good choice for a first trimming experience unless your Fjord's mane came to you that way, suggesting that they probably have achieved the requisite level of patience with the mane trimming process.
Below are two Fjords with the mourning trim.
